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Classic Alpinsim on the Weissmeis summit ridge, Saas Taal, Swiss Alps
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Reports from the Mountains....

 

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Scottish Winter 07/08

Scottish Winter 06/07

BMC International Winter Meet 2007

Scottish Winter Climbing History

New Routes

Munroists Interview

Mountain Environment

 

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Alpine Summer 2008

Alps Winter 06/07

  Alpine Summer 2006 
  Alps Summer 05 - Pizza and 4000m Peaks
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Mount Vinson 2009

Mera Peak 2007

Japanese Winter Climbing

Muztag Ata 2006

  Meru Sharks Fin, Gangotri Himalaya
 

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Ski Reports - Scotland

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Ski Reports - Vanoise

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Brit Rock Photo Quiz 

 

Winter Climbing Photo-Quiz 

 

Old News

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Highland Guides News & Mountaineering Report

2/11/2011 Scottish Winter Courses 2012

High Mountain Guides will be running the full compliment of mountaineering courses in the Scottish Highlands this coming winter season. From introductory training with ice-axe and crampons to technical winter climbing, we will be providing high quality bespoke courses for small groups and individuals.

All courses are based in Fort William and will be starting between Christmas and New Year so why not blow the cobwebs away, get out into the snow clad hills and kick start 2012 with some fantastic winter mountaineering experiences. More details on Scottish winter mountaineering courses.

We also run alpine mountaineering and ski touring courses based in Chamonix Mont Blanc. Click the links for more details.

Scottish winter mountaineering course

25/10 Eiger North Face Ascent in a Day

The North Face of the Eiger, a route that captures the imagination of most of the public let alone mountaineers, has been in fantastic condition for the last few weeks of the autumn....

Mike Brownlow finishing the Quartz Crack on the North Face of the Eiger Exit chimneys, Swiss Alps

Seeing the end of an extremely stable weather window coming to an end Mike Brownlow and I decided that 'the hour was now' and made our way to Grindlewald for a 1 day ascent of the face and spectacular bivi on the Mittellegi Ridge.

Read the full Eiger North Face Report, enjoy the photos and check out the North Face Eiger Kit List and discussion via the links.

24/4/2010 The Carn Mor Dearg Aretes

Mention the Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arete to the dedicated Scottish hill goer and they will conjure up an image of the aesthetic curving ridge encircling the Allt a' Mhuillin and offering constantly stupendous views of the North Face of Ben Nevis, a real British Mountain classic.

Michael and I felt like we were off-roading by breaking trail along the freshly whipped up pristine snow crest on the CMD East Ridge.

The sudden view of the Nevis North Face never fails to take my breath away and we turned left on to the minor B road of a small trail picking its way along the exposed but friendly crest of the South ridge of CMD.

The A road is joined at the top of the Coire Leis Abseil posts for the final trudge up to the summit of the Ben where the Autoroute down the tourist track can be joined.

Michael on the East Ridge of Carn Mor Dearg, Lochaber

Euan and clients climbed Green Gully and reported reasonable ice with a series of trundling soft snow mini avalanches running in to the Gully.

The North Face of Ben Nevis from Carn Mor Dearg


Rob Jarvis climbing the Creag Meagaidh Ice route, 'South Pipe Direct' (IV), Scottish Highlands

12/2/10 Great Ice Climbing in Scottish Highlands....

The winter climbing season is in full swing in the Scottish Highlands and there are currently some great conditions.

Big dumps of snow in January followed by constantly sub-zero temperatures on the hills have given superb conditions for ice and mixed climbing as well as ski touring and winter hill walking.

The big freeze looks set to continue and with so much snow and ice around we could be shaping up nicely for some superb late season winter climbing.

For more information and photos check the links for our latest Scottish winter news and for details of our winter mountaineering courses.

 

3/11/09 Nanda Devi / Changuch Film Now On-line....

You can now view the short film about the 2009 British / Indian expedition to climb Nanda Devi East & Changuch in the Indian Himalaya.

If you have any comments, it would be great to see them in the thread on the Guest Book.

24/10/09

High Mountain Guides...

The new 'High Mountain Guides' website is now on-line. HMG is Rob's new mountain guiding compnay to reflect that we are now running alpine mountaineering and ski touring courses in the European Alps.

High Mountain Guides Logo

Dougal Ranford cranking up the final head wall of 'Out of the Blue', Sharpnose, Devon.

The High Mountain Guides Website contains a range of new ideas for alpine mountaineering and ski courses as well as a wealth of new photos in the gallery and movies in the cinema. It is interactive so have a good browse round, fill in the guest book and comment on various news items.We are now taking bookings for the 2010 Scottish winter, alpine spring ski touring and alpine summer mountaineering seasons. I hope to climb or ski with you in 2010, Rob

10/10/09 Snow in the Highlands & Scottish Winter Courses Now Booking:

Thanks to all those who have been in touch already about the forthcoming Scottish Winter Mountaineering season. It's easy to be inspired when there have already been a number of snow flurries in the Highlands. As usual we will be offering the full range of Winter Mountaineering courses from introductory winter skills and mountaineering to advanced winter climbing. These are all on a tailor made basis so please get in touch now to discuss your requirements.
Winter mountaineering in Glen Coe
Winter Climbing on Ben Nevis
Rob will be away guiding on Mount Vinson in Antarctica again this austral summer so please get in touch before late November to book courses from mid-february onwards. Fingers crossed for a cold & snowy season....

3/10/09 Short preview of forthcoming Nanda Devi East & Changuch 2009 Expedition Film:

29/8/09 Late Summer in The Alps

Nordend from the Dufourspitze, Monte Rosa, Swiss Alps

Three weeks of warm and sunny alpine weather has made it's mark on climbing conditions across the Western Alps. Rock routes, even at the highest altitude became totally dry and snow free whilst some of the glaciers and classic easy snow ascents became awkward icy challenges.
Jenny 'going-ape' on the Italian Ridge of the Matterhorn
The superb summit crest of the Dufourspitze, Monte Rosa, Swiss Alps
Many teams have been out making the most of the warm, stable weather and in the last few weeks I've climbed the Italian Ridge on the Matterhorn, (descending the Hornligrat to make one of the finest high level day traverses in the Alps) the Breithorn, Pollux, Monte Rosa and, this week, the Aiguille de Tour and Mont Blanc du Tacul with the speedy and cheerfull threesome of Stu, Sam and Elen.

Stu, Elen and Sam on the summit of Mt Blanc du Tacul, Mt. Blanc beyond, French Alps

11/8/09 Traverse of the Ober Gabelhorn & Wiwani Alpine 'Paradise'

I had a few days holiday with my girlfriend Jenny in the Swiss Valais last week. We took the long and delightful stroll out of Zermatt up to the Arben Bivvi Hut which nestles conveniently under the impressive rocky South Face of the Ober Gabelhorn. The traverse of this small but proud 4000m peak is a real alpine treat to savour with a wide variety of terrain from perfect ridge scrambling, rock pitches, abseiling and down climbing snowy mixed ground aswell as classic snow aretes, the lot!
Alpine hillwalking straight out of Zermatt with the Matterhorn North Face in the background
Alpine flowers on the walk up to the Arben Bivvi Hut, Valais, Swiss Alps
The South Face of the Ober Gabelhorn with the route from the Arben Hut to the Arbengrat marked in red, Valais, Swiss Alps Jenny on the summit of the Ober Gabelhorn with the Dent Blanche N. Face behind, Valais, Swiss Alps
The descent of the ENE ridge down to the Rothorn Hutte via the Wellenkuppe is not trivial and demands concentration throughout both in route finding and careful down climbing, not to mention some buch yarding on the fixed ropes of the Grande Gendarme! After Rosti and applestrudel at the Rothorn hut all that is left is the knee crunching 1700m descent straight down to the Brown Cow in Zermatt and a fitting climax to this real classic alpine traverse.

Jenny on the summit of the Wellenkuppe with the Ober Gabelhorn ENE Ridge marked in red.  Dent Blanche beyond, Valais, Swiss Alps.

As the weather deteriorated a retreat to the comfortable sanctity of the Wiwani hut, North of Visp, was called for. This hut boasts some of the finest hospitality, cake and wine around. The alpine sport rock and scrambling are pretty fine too. It's well worth a visit if you are in the area: http://www.wiwanni.ch/EN/huette.php You can even do yoga courses there!

Chamois on the Northern slopes of Mont Blanc

31/7/09 Micro Mountain Reports ("Tweets!") on Twitter....

Highland Guides have embraced the latest method of instant telephone / internet communication.

You can now follow Rob's regular micro Mountain reports on the Twitter site: http://twitter.com/HiMountainGuide

This is part of programme building up to the launch of 'High Mountain Guides':

www.highmountainguides.com

which will be running a range of tailor made alpine and ski programmes from this september onwards. Please contact us for more details.

31/7/09 Images & Reports from Chamonix Summer 2009

The big peaks of the Swiss Valais from the Trient Glacier.

Images are all from this alpine summer Guiding season in and around the Chamonix Valley.

At 4000m on the ascent of Mont Blanc with the Aiguille de Bionassay beyond.
The superb rocky summit of L'Index, Aiguille Rouges. Rock climbing in Chamonix.
High on the Dent de Geant, French / Itallian Alps
On the summit of Mont Blanc with Shaun who was raising money for the Macmillan Cancer Research fund.
Routes include Mont Blanc (climbed in good if rather windy conditions yesterday); The Dent De Geant, Tour Ronde (Freshfield Arete), Chere Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul; Cosmiques Arete, L'Index, Traverse of the Crochues, Aiguille de Tour, Tete Blanche.

The Glacier de Tour and Chamonix Valley

18/6/09 Nanda Devi East & Changuch First Ascent, Indian Himalaya.....

A team of six British climbers including Guides Martin Moran and myself attempted the truly inspiring, huge and objectively safe South Rigde of Nanda Devi East (7434m) in the India Himalaya in this years pre-monsoon climbing season. (The ridge coming towards the camera from the central peak, below)

Leon near the summit of Changuch on the first ascent. Beyond, Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East, Indian Himalaya

We joined a larger Polish team at the lovely Nanda Devi East Base Camp which consisited of some highly talented alpinists and experienced Himalayan climbers. The Poles fixed over a 1000m of rope and ground to a halt on technical ground at 6900m. Although inspiring, the South Ridge proved too big an objective for our team and we switched our attention to a smaller but striking and unclimbed peak near base camp, Changuch (6322m).

The first and only British ascent of Nanda Devi East was in 1994, made in fine alpine style by the current president of the British Mountain Guides, Roger Payne with his Kiwi wife Julie-Anne Clyma, (also a British Guide). Read the report of that trip here.

Primulas in the Indian Himalaya
"The Card Cheat", Khati, Indian Himalaya
Indian girl in Khati, Indian Himalaya
A fiery sheperds dahl baht, very welcome after the crossing of Trails Pass, Indian Himalaya

The ascent of Changuch's striking North West Ridge (right)) provided an exacting alpine climb (D-) over 3 days, one spent resting at a rather exiguous campsite.

At 00.30 on a perfect Himalayan morning in early June Paul Guest, Indian Liaison officer Luder Sain, Martin Moran, Leon winchester and myself set off from our high camp into a cold and starry night. 28 hours later we would be celebrating back in Base Camp with our staple meal of dahl baht prepared by our excellent Indian cook, Navine.

For more details check the news section of the new BMG Website.

The Nort West Ridge of Changuch, Indian Himalaya

For more news and information check the High Mountain Guides Website